La Vijanera in Cantabria, Spain

The town of Silió is sandwiched between hills in the Iguña Valley of Cantabria, another mystical and magical area of northern Spain full of folklore. The weather here rolls in and out just like the undulating landscape that characterizes it. In my long weekend here I experienced a little of everything, rain, hail, snow, and sunshine. Luckily for me the Sunday of La Vijanera was mostly clear with just a little drizzle making it very easy to see all the incredible costumes and linger on the fact that these must’ve taken many painstaking, and possibly painful- depending on the natural materials used, hours to create.

The origins of this particular ancient pagan festival date back to the middle ages, the first known documentation however was in 1786. Its current iteration was conceived in 1982 when a group of locals decided to revive the tradition after being banned, along with all other pagan festivals, post Spanish civil war by the staunchly Catholic dictator Franco.

Likely linked to the winter solstice or the changing of seasons the festival has been said to also symbolize the triumph of good over evil as we usher in the new year. In the small town of around 500 it seems as if nearly a quarter of the men are masked participants in the day’s procession of actors. Most of the costumed are dressed as Zamarrocos, the protagonists of the day, wearing conical hats, a sheep’s pelt and oversized cowbells weighing up to 50 kilos in total on both their chests and backs. Their faces are smudged black using burnt cork; I’ll admit this was a little alarming to me at first sight but after doing some research I learned that the darkening of their faces is actually relates to the bear they are setting out to capture that day. Maybe it is a disguise so that the bear emerging from hibernation can’t see them? As the bear comes out of hibernation he must adjust his vision to the light but before then he sees everything masked in darkness, so I assume we are meant to see the Zamarrocos as the bear might see them (or not see them) as he emerges from his cave. Admittedly, this is my personal interpretation of what I have read as the explanation for the black faces but I am not entirely certain, it does not seem that the tradition has any underlying racist connotations though.

As they march through the center of town the clanging of their cowbells startle the nearby farm animals as well as the supposed evil that the bear embodies. The mythology surrounding the La Vijanera bear has more practical roots though, representing the actual animal that stalked and killed the livestock in the town and threatened the livelihood and food supply of the the locals. At the end of the day when the Zamarrocos have successfully captured and killed the bear all evil is warded off and it is said that the new year can be received with good omens. His death is also symbolic of the end of winter and the beginning of a new, fertile spring season.

There is a whole tribe of other characters including a cunning and evil fox, Zorrocloco, the Traperos who are dressed in colorful rags who traditionally use rag covered sticks to shake mud (or animal excrement in the past) on young women as part of a fertility rite. It seems these days though no one is safe from their mud covered rags so beware of a Trapero lurking near a puddle.

Los Trapajones make their costumes from materials found in nature. One of my favorites is a suit made of walnut shells but there are many others who have made their outfits from dried leaves, holly branches, prickly chestnut shells and even tree bark. Each character has a history and a purpose for the day, all of which can be read about on the official La Vijanera website.

The day officially starts around 6:00 am with the launching of a rocket but I suggest you arrive a little later, around 10:30 about an hour before the real festivities kick off. I would also recommend making plans for a late lunch around 3pm. I wouldn’t hesitate to go back to Mesón de Borleña where I feasted on delicious cocido montañes and sauteed seasonal mushrooms with egg yolk. For up to date and accurate info consult the town’s website which has all you need to know in order to prepare for the day.

I suggest staying close to Silió to ensure a short commute. We stayed at the charming Posada Seis Leguas about 20 minutes up the road. While you are in the area, Santander is a beautiful city worth your time (and appetite- sit at the bar at Bodega del Riojano or reserve your spot at Bodega Fuente Dé) as are the architectural delights of the seaside town of Comillas where you can visit El Capricho de Gaudí, the Palacio de Sobrellano and the impressive seminary inside the university. Finally, if you love a good hike and your time and weather permit, check out the trails at either the Picos de Europa or Saja-Besaya natural parks for impressive scenery and hikes suitable for all levels.