Long Weekends in Provence
My favorite places in the Luberon, Drôme, and Vaucluse
When we first moved to Barcelona I never envisioned spending our holiday weekends driving up to Provence. For starters, I had only ever been to Paris and didn’t have a clue yet as to what wonders existed in rural France but after finishing ‘A Year in Provence’ I was left dreaming of lavender and sunflower fields, traditional French markets, sipping pastis on a sun-soaked terrace and dining on classic Provençal dishes.
Just a few months after reading the best selling memoir by Peter Mayle I’d planned our first roadtrip to Provence where we would stay in the center of Vaucluse in a beautifully restored sheepfold called La Bergerie Pradel. The rural location was perfect for our old dog who at the age of 11 preferred sunbathing in the garden rather than hiking. The weather was perfect in September allowing us to swim in the pool as well as enjoy strolling through markets without overheating. Summertime can be more crowded as we would learn on our next trip so if you can plan a shoulder season visit you’ll encounter fewer tourists and cooler temps. It was the gateway experience to what would become a regular vacation spot of ours.
The next time I would go wouldn’t be for a couple of years, this time in the heat of mid-summer with a good friend. July would not normally be my choice of months to visit a region of Europe notorious for blistering heat but it happened to be an ideal time for my friend so I reluctantly agreed. I could not have been more misinformed about the weather, I was shocked by how cool the nights were and how lovely sipping a glass of Tavel in a shady village square would be. Living in a humid city like Barcelona and being from an even more humid city I was unaccustomed to what a dry heat feels like and it turns out 95º F in Provence feels NOTHING like 95º F in New Orleans! You’ll still have to be strategic about your activities that expose you to the midday sun but there is plenty to do indoors (re: wine tasting!) or in the shade. I would go on the visit two more summers in a row, each one being more exciting than the previous. Last summer we made sure to plan our visit around the Tour de France which was epic! If you have the opportunity to see the Tour in Provence take it! The picturesque Provençal villages create a fairytale backdrop for the event.
My most recent trip this November was a third visit to my favorite guesthouse in Drôme, La Perroya. The proprietress, Agathe, has expertly restored and decorated her beautiful village house in Visan. Go in the summer to spend afternoons in the dip pool on the shaded patio or in the winter you’ll have the opportunity to enjoy the cozy salon sitting by the fireplace. With only 4 rooms you’ll never feel neglected or like the house is overcrowded but if you prefer complete privacy you can rent the whole space for your group of friends or family.
So if you are ready to start planning here are my recommendations for what to see, where to eat, and what to do!
